Something’s Happening, Part 1 Istanbul

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The posts on this blog are usually results of travel related experiences, and most often in the setting of Spain.
This one one neither. There are many tragic, uncomfortable, or unbelievable stories of injustice that happen in the world, and they’re often glazed over because we’ve all got enough to worry about. But there are themes that must be recognized and understood, ones that are constant in our collective human experience, some happening in far off places.
I, for one, champion anyone who has the perception and balls to stifle aggressive capitalist projects that aim, however inadvertently, to sterilize or rub out anything with cultural meaning.
This blog post, from Insanlik Hali, if anything, is a refreshing attempt at spreading the word about an important local issue, and about events that have turned tragic without the notice of the people who are supposed to be informing the world.
Sound familiar?
A protest about a park in Istanbul may at first seem irrelevant to you, but I’d venture to say something similar has happened, or is about to happen, very close to you. Paying attention is the least that should be done.

Places in Retro: Part 2. A Boat and Some Water

Inevitably the time of year comes when my imagination begins to slip away from the urbanity and dryness of an inland city and toward the sea. I suspect it will (and I both fear it and embrace it) always be that way. The ‘call to the sea’ is a cliché, and uttering the very words makes my eyes heavy with instant boredom or roll with dismissal. But wonderful life cocktails of pain and pleasure — travel and sailing being two experiences in particular — do have their sirens that whisper in my ear when the sun begins to shine and warm my face. So as I plan my summer, and as the sentimental fool that I am, I’ve collected a few memories that were realized on or near the water. Here’s to more…

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Our temporary escorts. One dark night I sat on the bow of our boat, watching these spinner dolphins dart through the water, leaving green rocket trails of phosphorescent algae behind them. And there is a strange power of connection in watching them tilt to the side and gaze at you with a little eye, or in hearing the air escape their blowholes merely feet away.

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At the southernmost point of the African continent, the Cape of Good Hope. Long on my land extremities life list.

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Sitting in a saddle made for a 6-year-old on an uneasy South African horse I had no business riding. I had the nice one, though.

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This confident-looking sailor, finally departing from Royal Cape Yacht Club in Cape Town, South Africa (with Lion’s Head in the background) was reduced to a vomiting mess only hours later. Probably the worst night I have ever had at sea, the large swells that rocked our boat at night brought me to my knees, on the first night of our month-long trip, almost incapacitated by seasickness, lying on the deck near the helm, surrounded by a beautiful swash of green phosphorescent algae (and puke). The crew, undoubtedly, were not impressed.

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Our catamaran, Kepa II, en route from South Africa to Tonga in the South Pacific, more than half-way around the world. I once sat on the little seat on the bow, waiting for hours to capture flying fish on my video camera.

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Onboard, I took it upon myself to be the baker for the trip across the Atlantic from Cape Town to Panama. It worked some of the time. There is nothing like hours of mind-numbing boredom to hone your baking skills.

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The island of St. Helena, Britain’s second oldest colony (overseas territory). It is difficult to find a place on the globe that rivals the remoteness of this place. In fact it was the final point of exile for Napoleon I, although his residence wasn’t exactly a dungeon, now under control of the French Foreign Ministry.

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A big moment for an amateur sailor: my first gale.

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Our boat at the moorings near Jamestown, at St. Helena.

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Craggy, intimidating St. Helena on our first approach.

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Resting at harbor in Trinidad, after crossing the Atlantic.

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An easy day moving along nicely with kite out. Photo taken from the top of the mast.

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Yes, that says 75% alcohol. When in Tobago…

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There is something terribly exciting about the beaches of Tobago.

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We slightly drunk crew hanging with some quirky Tobago residents.

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The locks of the Panama Canal.

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En route through the Panama Canal, in Gatun Lake.

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A blue water sailor’s fear: fast-moving cargo ships.

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A scary day off the Dalmatian coast (Croatia) when the wind was stronger than the little diesel engine on our boat.

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Our Sunsail flotilla moored at Skradin, Croatia, near Krka National Park.

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The end result of a challenging afternoon of anchoring on steep rock. Croatia.

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Our flotilla on mooring balls. Croatia.

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Stressed out somewhere off the coast of Nova Scotia.

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Foggy Canadian sea.

Supervisual Ode to The Grand Way: Spain’s Broadway

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Screen shot from the 1950 film “El Último Caballo”.

There is a place in the center of Spain, a center economically and geographically, that forces on passersby the genuine urban commotion of an honest to God, real-life city. There are tall buildings and countless corners of human activity, some preserved under antiquated folds of history, others merely shelters and spaces for citizens and visitors interacting with each other.  And Gran Vía is also a practical museum for early 20th century architectural eclecticism, including Plateresque, Neo-Mudéjar, Art Deco, Vienna Secession, Neo-Baroque, Beaux Arts, Churrigueresque, and Eclecticism itself.

It is a place, of course, walked by millions of people throughout modern history, and it is now a place that has successfully continued to showcase varied styles of architecture, made by creative city dwellers who have constructed buildings that reflected the human condition, mood and sensibilities of their times. Now, they are relics of ages past, and some of those relics tap into our collective consciousness, as though we lived in there and then, and it is a particular comfort to have these collections of monuments where we live, because these monuments are deeply meaningful and it would be foolish to conjure something more properly representative of what is it to live in a city.

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Photo by me, buildings by other people.

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The Edificio Telefonica, with its iconic red-lit clock, designed by Ignacio de Cárdenas, after a supposedly inspiring study of the Manhattan skyline and the work of Lewis S. Weeks. Although blatantly influenced by American architecture, he did include noticeable Churrigueresque touches on the façade. A central observatory by Republican forces in the Spanish Civil War, it was also where John Dos Passos and Ernest Hemingway sent their reports of the war.

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An unabashed, yet humble building of pure Art Deco.

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The iconic building which houses the Circulo de Bellas Artes. A structure that has the power of transporting an observer to the early 1900′s.

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Finished in 1910, the Edificio Metrópolis is a Beaux Arts gem, and probably one of the most eye-catching and iconic structures in Madrid. A worthy nod to the French neo-classical style, it is crowned with the Roman goddess Victoria, wings spread and watching over the city.

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Once a buzzing center of theatre activity, the plaza near Callao has unfortunately given way to more hollow, blatant appeals to capitalistic shopping frenzy. The Capitol, though, remains, set in yet another perfect example of Art Deco architecture.

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The Edificio España is a formidable neo-Baroque tower. Finished in 1953, it is currently awaiting renovation, the formalities of which, according to investors at Santander, “take time.” So many empty rooms…

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Actually located nearby on Calle Alcalá, the Edificio de la Equitativa was built in 1880 and is one of my favorites. With its sculpted elephant heads looking down at pedestrians, the narrow triangular shape is a striking work by José Grases Riera, the creator responsible for Madrid’s most significant work of Art Nouveau, the Palacio Longoria.

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Built in 1917, the Edificio Grassy is representative of the style of Eclecticism and meant to complement the Metrópolis, just across the street. The building now houses an upscale jewelry shop by the same name. At the entrance, there is a plaque saying Theophile Gautier lived in the neighborhood.

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A look across the city from the Azotea, at the Circulo de Bellas Artes.

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Also not on Gran Vía itself, this old theatre on Calle Montera is a classic display of the Spanish Plateresque architectural movement, with its festoons and draping wreaths.

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The Cuckoo’s Nest: My Days in a Spanish Elementary School, Part 5. For English Language Teachers:

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Sometimes it can’t be explained in simple words. A picture definition of “teetering on the edge of submitting to his vampire instincts.” (reading practice of a movie review of “Twilight.”)

In October 2010, I began a “teaching” assistant job in a bilingual elementary school in the center of Madrid.  On my first day, with the uneasy feeling of sliding into a house party full of unfamiliar people, I walked into the classroom to mingle with the twitchy, distracted children. As it turns out, the first words uttered to me as I embarked on my assigned duty of cross-cultural embassador were, “Poop penis!”

Simple and direct, although a grammatical mess.

I thought, This is going to be a long year.

Since then, I’ve taken on more responsibility and control of my curriculum, but through my students, I have discovered so many false cognates, pronunciation foul-ups, accidental and hilarious cultural faux-pas, and inappropriate translation mistakes, and it is inexcusable that I have not written all of them down.  There are, though, a few that stand out, and each time they occur, I feel as though I’ve discovered laughter for the first time.

Most laughable language mistakes seem to come from children, but there are exceptions.  A few months ago, as I was reviewing the theme of opposites with adjectives, I asked my 25-year-old student a warm up question.

“What is the opposite of messy?” I asked.

“Ronaldo,” she said.

The answer was automatic and matter-of-fact.  She hadn’t yet figured out the topic of our class, and she saw the humor in the answer only afterward.

Others:

What are you going to cock tonight?” (a result of over-correcting from the default /uw/ sound in cook, moving from cook to cock).

…like the blackies in Angola and other parts of Africa.” Believe it or not, this was the third most offensive term this student used, preceded by the n-word, and “the past slave population.” It should be mentioned that this student is neither a racist nor an ignorant bastard who is lazy with his language.  He was working with a perceived notion that Americans are very cautious about racial labels, and he was just trying too hard to be politically correct.  It was hilarious only because of his innocence.

In language learning, many students find patterns refreshing and satisfying. And in English, most of the time, there are discernible patterns.

The English language has at least 44 distinguishable phonetic sounds, the uses of which vary depending on the environment in which they occur and regional accent of the speaker.  For this, English is notorious and often intimidating.  The Spanish speaker invariably will have problems with certain English sounds, either because they don’t exist in Spanish or their tongue doesn’t want to cooperate because they’ve already decided on the improbably of a correct utterance. The following are a few examples:

/ʃ/ as in show, shark, Shawn

/z/ as in zoo, zebra, zero

/v/ as in very, Veronica, caravan

/ð/ as in then, the, there

/r/ (not trilled) as in run, rage, red

/I/ as in sit, pit, ship

/ʊ/ book, put

/æ/ cat, mat, pan

/ə/ about, away, cinema

/ay/ fight, buy

/ey/ say, play

There are complex vowel sounds that come from the English-speaking mouth which are a particular source of pain and misery for most Spanish speakers.  For them, is it incredibly difficult to distinguish between words like fate and fight, or beat and bit, or  taste and test.  The problems occur when the slip in pronunciation results in a confusion in meaning.  Examples that come to mind: beach and bitch, sheet and shit (although I’ve not really seen this happen in early learners, since Spanish speakers are not likely to accidentally say a sound that they have no experience in uttering. They will probably merely say, for example, if they are actually referring to the dirtier side of Rio de Janeiro’s coastline, “There are a lot of hot beetches on the beaches there.”). My classes collectively still assume, when I say, “Come on, guys!”, that I’m referring to them as some consortium of homosexuals.

A restaurant sign apparently trying to appeal to all Indo-European roots simultaneously.

Consider the following variations of my name that I must spontaneously interpret on a daily basis, listed in order of occurrence:

Schwan, Swan, Sone, San, Son, Sun, Sen, Eswan, Esan, Eson. 

I suspect that Schwan is the most popular of these beautiful variations because of the (debatable) similarity to the Catalán sound of, ‘x’, as in Xavi, Xavier, deixa, or xarop. So, when I introduce myself, I usually follow the introduction with a brief phonetic comparison, “Shawn, like Xavi, the football player…“. And although the ‘x’ phoneme in this example is actually more complex than /ʃ/, this is usually sufficient, but there still remain several coworkers and friends who will always call me by the name of that long-necked, white bird that swims in ponds (which has a strange feminizing effect on me).  So, for restaurant reservations and to others who can’t be bothered with the novelty of a foreign name, I have decided I will now be called “Don Juan Simon García Martinez de la Serpiente Azul“, because it’s just easier.

But they really are reasonable, these problems people have with English. Given the plethora of potential pronunciation obstacles Spanish speakers must over come, it is not surprising when intelligent, bright people of all ages are frustrated with our language, particularly with regard to spelling and pronunciation.  Most foreign language speakers become aware of this and at some point get discouraged, convinced that there are no reasons or patterns to be offered, and disparage the Anglophone as the devil.  Most of these perceived anomalies can be explained, though, and from the student’s point of view, this often marks the difference between an English teacher and a coincidentally native speaker on an extended backpacking trip.

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Often phrases will appear in conversation which are at first completely indecipherable.

they are just big information pirates.”

“Preservatives kind of make sex not as good, but I guess they’re important to put on.”

“I like eggs passed through water, but not for breakfast.”

For me, the process of discovering how a person has formed a sentence is interesting and usually enlightens me on their native language as well, which is the language I should be learning anyway. And the more knowledge I have of their native tongue, the more effective I can be at teaching them mine.  To me, the answer of “I don’t know, it’s just that way” is lazy (but of course I have resorted to this, usually on a Friday evening when all I can think of is a cold beer).

There are, by the way, phonemes in Spanish that I find nearly impossible to distinguish, to the delight of some of my students.  For example, the letter “l”can have three different ways of pronunciation in Spanish (yes, technically, the differences exist).

/ɺ/ alza, dulce

/l/ falda, saltar

/ɭ/ el lote, Lola

As in English, the variation depends on where the letter is placed in the word.  But in English, there are far more of these examples to contend with.  The sounds change depending on the placement of the letter in the word, as well as in the sentence as a whole.

Consider the letter “c”, which is pronounced a certain way before a, u, o, l, and r,  but sounds different when occurring before e and i.  And the letters “ch” sound different depending on if the c precedes and h or a k.

So, if you happen to be a teacher of English, armchair or professional, in the midst of children (or adults) who love English on Tuesday and then scorn all things British or American on Friday, remember that no matter how peripheral the actual language may sometimes seem, encouragement and a little research on your own language go a long way. I have weaved through (and have, so far, successfully avoided, it should be said) the occasional epidemic of lice, pink eye, mononucleosis, the downright offensive fit of herpes simplex on the oblivious kid in the front row, the vomit, the anomalistic allergies that may or may not result in death or permanent psychosis, and had the pleasure of dealing with the boy who just poked a pencil deep in his ear and promptly shit his pants in class. And still, I realize again and again, that the classroom is a unique place in the world where, from time to time, amazing learning processes occur, where real changes happen in the minds of young ones (and old ones).  And if I can use my love of language and find the inherent humor in it, I find that I am not wasting my time. The passing daily crises we face cannot be allowed to quell the humor in learning or cloud the awareness of the inherent quality of language in our existence.

prying open a cocoon

2013-04-27 00.31.38-1Lately, my travel-minded thoughts and actions have temporarily been put on hold, and I’ve been working on my eternally gestating book. And forever figuring out my style of work, proper schedule, inspiration (and lack of), and demons of all sorts, I’ve been simply clocking in and out, and trying desperately to produce a thing of meaning and accomplishment.

Below is a small excerpt, work that represents part of my fleshing out of two characters who may or may not be in the final product, but at least are a couple of personalities maturing nicely in my mind.  And that’s all I can ask.

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“I just love all types of crustaceans,” she said. Rain always made her think of seafood.  “And of course you know I hate white chocolate.”

“Have you ever eaten snake meat?” he asked.

“I’ve told you, I don’t eat meat.”

“Really, now.  Jamón Serrano or chorizo?  Or some other Christian, pork-derived flesh?” he said.

“You know, there’s a few things more annoying to a girl than when someone slaps her with a thing, osea… The espanish, whatever, the French have their baguettes, the Rusos don’t get cold or something.”

“I think you mean few things,” he said.

He looked at her as she turned her head away to one side and scrunched her dark eyebrows.  She stretched her smooth neck to meet the cigarette in her hand.  He loved to watch her smoke, her lanky limbs twisting as she inhaled, legs crossed and arms pulled in at cubist angles, her triangular lips now rounded and cheeks pulled in. He pretended not to notice that she was carefully forming her moments of elegance.

They sat at a small table outside of the restaurant, tucked under the canvas covering on Calle Regueros, and she exhaled the smoke into the falling rain.  The puff slid out from her mouth, floating through the drops of rain and this reminded him of her pale, naked thighs, rough with stubble like an aged urchin and damp like they were laid out in a hot greenhouse. And he thought of the dark mole at her lower back.  His mole. And the white covers on his bed, peppered with her wiry black hair and with the slight smell of her body deep in the cotton fabric.

These images, scenes and shots played out only hours before, were already like grainy sepia pin hole pictures, and they were like all the others, becoming mere mental files, poorly embroidered badges noticed by no one, like junk food that, for a few seconds, staved off the panic and hopelessness of another squandered moment otherwise filled with beauty.

“Like, few things, not a few things,” he said.

“Or an English lesson at 11 o’clock at night,” she said. “joder, that can make a girl dry and grumpy.  And gone.”

He sat back in his seat and his spine softened as he fell into that familiar slumping posture. His guts squished against his ribs, but it felt safer and natural, pulled in, away from the world. He reached for the bottle of wine at the center of the table and poured, spilling some around the side of the glass.

“I could leave now if you’d like to smoke and contemplate the universe and linguistic power plays alone, all by your hot and beautiful self,” he said.

“Don’t be a mopey little guiri,” she said. 

She patted him on the head and tapped his lips with her finger, which smelled like cigarettes and coffee, and she thought about leaning over to give him a kiss, but looked away again. He suddenly desired her to wrap her long fingers around his neck, a squeeze of unannounced punishment, and suffocate him with the blue fabric of her blouse.

The calm patter of rain continued on the bumpy street, where a few passersby stood close to their table with wet hair and looks for slight embarrassment, waiting for a break in the rain. There were many people walking the streets, holding their joblessness under long jackets and wrapped in flowery pañuelos and behind teethy smiles and patchy beards.  For a long time now, wallets and purses held little money to spend, and in table side conversations there was a vague perverted anger at some nameless gods of modern society.  But sometimes the rain fell and cleaned the streets, and the warm lights of cafés and bars shone yellow and reflected on the uneven narrow roadways, laying a soft-toned blanket on the pretty dresses and tight suits worn by the cranky youth of the country.

“I taught you that word, mopey, and you’ve been using in constantly ever since,” he said. “Why don’t you ever drink wine with me?  I feel like a drunk around you.”