Between storms, which opened for us like the Red Sea, we walked the narrow streets of Oporto and rode a boat along the Douro. With high, steep hills crowded around the river, and humble dwellings covered in terra-cotta and beautiful tile work, Oporto surpassed our expectations and deserves another trip soon. … Read More The Simple Decadence of Oporto
Granada and The Alhambra have whetted the sensibilities of Romantics for generations, and at this place along the Sierra Nevada mountains, one finds that there are fewer places to better understand the Saracenic and Gothic which run so deeply and obviously in the culture of Spain. Washington Irving wrote that the Alhambra was “so often and… Read More Granada and La Alhambra (photos)
In the village, more than in the city, there is a strict adherence to schedules – schedules dictated by inactivity. Certain things are only done at particular hours; any momentary deviation from the way things are done is considered at least a minor incident. In the winter, locals in villages move slower than ever, as if… Read More Morning Market
In La Granja de San Ildefonso, a once glorious playground for the royals just outside of Segovia, the chilled fall air slides down through the valleys from the tops of the hills, and the smell of fireplaces and roasting lamb wafts in the streets. The air is thin and cool, and the residents of Madrid… Read More La Granja de San Ildefonso
There is a sometimes disconcerting change that happens to a foreigner who remains in a place long. The color and novelties of a culture, the satisfaction of noticing the small ways of doing things that are different to one’s own, during what Hemingway called the “spectacle stage of appreciation”, are replaced by the an ever-growing… Read More Sitting Still
For those of you who remember when I used to write, that person is still trying to claw out of the business of life to reflect and purvey. In the meantime, here are some more photos from the last few weeks, a holiday break brimming with memorable moments, many of them involving clouds and signs… Read More Some more photos lately 2
Plaza de Cervantes, Alcalá de Heráres (near the birthplace of Miguel Cervantes).