Morning Market

In the village, more than in the city, there is a strict adherence to schedules – schedules dictated by inactivity.  Certain things are only done at particular hours; any momentary deviation from the way things are done is considered at least a minor incident. In the winter, locals in villages move slower than ever, as if… Read More Morning Market

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Pagus Oculensis

Uclés is a village in Castilla-La Mancha, already populated around the time of the Pax Romana, which today has about 290 residents. The surrounding plains are layered with a summer patchwork of red dirt plots, olive and almond tree orchards, rows of elms and conifers, and the small Bedija river is lined with poplars. Today,… Read More Pagus Oculensis

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Sitting Still

There is a sometimes disconcerting change that happens to a foreigner who remains in a place long. The color and novelties of a culture, the satisfaction of noticing the small ways of doing things that are different to one’s own, during what Hemingway called the “spectacle stage of appreciation”, are replaced by the an ever-growing… Read More Sitting Still

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